THAILAND
Country Overview:
"Thailand, a captivating blend of vibrant cities, tranquil villages, pristine beaches, and idyllic islands, holds a special place in my heart."
Every time I return to Thailand, I'm reminded of its irresistible allure. The warmth of the Thai people, the seamless blend of modern amenities and ancient traditions, and the sheer diversity of experiences on offer make it a truly remarkable destination. From the bustling energy of Bangkok to the serene beauty of Chiang Mai, and the sun-kissed shores of Phuket to the tranquil islands of Koh Phi Phi, Thailand has something to captivate every traveler. And let's not forget the food – a symphony of flavors that tantalizes the taste buds and leaves a lasting impression. Despite the challenges it has faced, Thailand remains a must-visit country, beckoning me back time and time again.
*Currently living in Chiang Mai.
Chiang Mai / Bangkok / Ayutthaya / Pattaya / Chiang Rai / Krabi / Phuket / Koh Tao
I quarantined in Bangkok in 2020 during the COVID-19 pandemic. You can read more about that experience here.
Tichuca Rooftop Bar - Bangkok
Tichuca Rooftop Bar located on the 46th floor of the T-One building in downtown Bangkok. Did I pay $8 for 1 beer? Yes. Was it worth it because of the view? Absolutely.
For whatever reason, had to do a COVID ATK test and wait 5 minutes for results before being allowed to take the elevator upstairs. Seems reasonable, but only bar I’ve encountered in Bangkok to require that.
Happy Chinese New Year from Bangkok!
It’s not that odd being in Bangkok for Chinese New Year, as I usually traveled to SE Asia during the holiday when I was living in Beijing.
Of course, I had to go to Chinatown yesterday to check out the festivities. As expected, lots of people, lots of red, and lots of girls in Qipaos.
Tried to find boiled dumplings, but somehow failed. Chinatown needs to step up its dumpling game. Instead, I found a Canton restaurant and had dim sum, pork ribs, cabbage sauteed in a vinegar / soy sauce mix, and an oyster omelet over bean sprouts. Delicious.
Sightseeing on Sunday in Bangkok
1 — Khao San Road
2 — Wat Chana Songkhram Ratchaworamahawihan (built in the 1700s)
3 — Phra Sumen Fort is the northernmost of Rattanakosin's original forts, located at the mouth of Khlong Rop Krung (the moat) where it meets the river. The surrounding area was subsequently developed into Santichaiprakan Park, which opened in 2000.
4 — Bronze equestrian statue dedicated to King Chulalongkorn (Rama V), who ruled from 1853–1910. Wasn’t allowed to get out of the car to take pictures, so taxi driver did a few loops and I had to shoot through the window. The building pictured is the north façade of the Ananta Samakhom Throne Hall, built in 1908 as an audience hall for the palace.
On the northern corner of the square is Amphorn Sathan Residential Hall, the primary residence of current King Vajiralongkorn (who throughout COVID has frequently been living in Germany), on its southwestern edge is Paruskavan Palace which hosts the headquarters of the National Intelligence Agency and Metropolitan Police Bureau. To its south is the headquarters of the Royal Thai Army's 1st army region.
Other pictures are from CentralWorld Mall adorned with Chinese New Year swag.
Photos From Around BKK
First three “good” food pictures are from Din Tai Feng, a famous Taiwanese dim sum restaurant, and the 4th is my white whale — Taco Bell. I didn’t have it for years living in Beijing, and finally found a Taco Bell when I went to Tokyo around 2017. Didn’t have it for another four years, and then lo and behold, I’m 300 meters away from one in Bangkok and it was every bit as tasty as I had remembered it.
Chinatown - Bangkok
With Chinese New Year right around the corner, I couldn’t NOT go to Chinatown in Bangkok, which is exactly what I had expected. Lots of red, lanterns, and Chinese people shopping.
Back in Bangkok
I had enough of Patong / beach / drinking / getting constantly catcalled by gogo bar girls, so I flew to Bangkok. I’ll likely be here for three weeks and then back to Chiangmai. It's always nice to be back in a big city with skyscrapers. Reminds me a lot of Beijing, and I for sure miss the big city vibes.
Views of the city were taken from the 18th floor of the gym of the Airbnb I’m staying.
Team Meeting by Beach
Had a team meeting yesterday (video call) so decided that rather than staying in the condo, I’d walk around until I found somewhere nice. This is where I ended up — some courtyard of a 5 star hotel right next to the beach. Didn’t ask about how much it would cost to stay here because I know I couldn’t afford it.
Patong, Phuket, Thailand
Like many people amid an ongoing pandemic, I’m trying to figure out my life. After almost exactly a year in Chiangmai, my relationship hit a point where I needed to physically remove myself from Chiangmai and take a breather elsewhere. As such, I have moved to Patong, Phuket, in southern Thailand. I’m not sure how long I will be here, or if this was the right decision, but it’s where I am now and I’ll spend the next few weeks sorting out what I want, and ultimately deciding what is best for me.
I have an Airbnb here, about 500 meters from the beach and located close to the central street. The apartment complex I’m staying in has a gym, but I found a better one — though more expensive than any I have seen before in Thailand. But that’s Phuket — expensive. It’s a tourist destination, and among the best in the world, and as such, things here are pricey. Alcohol, food, souvenirs, condos — it all costs a lot more than Chiangmai.
I miss my motorbike and my friends up north, but I felt static — like my life was in a constant state of repetitiveness. And while I do enjoy a good routine, where things are stable and easy, my relationship was everything but that. Yes, I’m spending money here in Phuket that I otherwise would be able to save had I stayed in Chiangmai, but I believe that being here for a few weeks is what I need.
I’ve also never worked while traveling. Sometimes I might have a few small things to do for one job (such as when I was in Europe in 2020), but this is the first time I’ve had 4 jobs and not been settled somewhere. I’ll get used to it, I’m sure, but it’s nice knowing that after I finish work at 4pm, I can head down to the beach or go walk around. Sure, I could have walked around Chiangmai, but it’s nice being somewhere I haven’t been before. That sense of “exploring the unknown” was something I think I missed having been in Chiangmai for so long.
My current visa is “pinned” to Chiangmai, meaning I physically need to go to Chiangmai immigration every 3 months to “check in” so even if I were to move somewhere long-term, I’d need to fly back four times a year. My condo in Chiangmai finishes in June. My plan is to find a new place in Chiangmai, and use that as my central hub. I’ll continue with my jobs, but my idea is to do 2-3 month sprints in different places around Thailand, working remotely but without needing to bring my entire life with me. Yes, I’ll be paying double rent (both in Chiangmai and wherever I travel to), but with the cost of living so cheap here, I think that’s manageable, and also a good way for me to travel while also continuing with my work responsibilities.
For now, I’m enjoying Phuket and excited to learn more about Patong — especially where to get good, cheap Thai food. Life comes at you fast, so don’t be scared to pull the trigger. Though it may seem drastic, sometimes, that’s exactly what’s needed.
Last Photos From Chiangmai...For Awhile
These were the last few photos taken from Chiangmai as I am now in Phuket. I’ll explain why I moved (only for a few months) in another post.
Top two were taken from a public park, and the bottom is Kaphrao with pork.
Starting 2022 at a Temple
This is called Wat Chompu, which made laugh because Chompu is the name of a really delicious fruit here. Don’t know the English name.
Happy New Year!
Wishing everyone a great 2022! I’d like to say that it can’t be any worse than the last two years, but at this rate, anything can happen.
The “2565” is 2022 in the ancient Thai numbering system. They still use the Thai system for years on receipts, in taxi cabs, and other places.
“Zoe in Yellow” is the name of a big bar compound in downtown Chiangmai.
A Viral State Is Live!
My new novel, A Viral State, is now published and available for sale worldwide.
Thank you to everyone who helped me get to this point. It's been a crazy 1.5 years getting this thing written, edited, and published, but I’m grateful to end 2021 having officially published my second novel. I hope you enjoy reading it and don’t worry, although this story is about a virus, it’s a lot more fun than living through COVID-19.
$38 Christmas Present from Mark
Degen,
I've been known to give books as presents, which I presume go unread, whereas you actually read the darn suckers. I had to outdo myself for Christmas, so I thought, instead of a book, why not give the gift of education? TOGETHER.
Merry Christmas,
Mark
The donation (a desk costs $38) made in your name will be put to use right away, supporting the next generation of education in Malawi, paving the way for a brighter future.
Thank you for playing a part in our work.
– Your friends at UNICEF USA.
Merry Christmas Eve — Traffic Ticket...
Got caught in a police trap on the highway and was fined 200 baht ($6) for not having a driver’s license. Paid it this morning and as he handed me my receipt, the officer said, “Merry Christmas.”